Somewhat unrelated things I found while researching the Sweete Bag

Ok, so, on the off-chance I don't have quite enough on my to-do wish list, I really, really like the look of Or Nue, and I really want to learn how to do it. Alas, chances of it being accurate to either R or my periods are pretty much nil. I do need to find any references to pre-300 BCE embroidery, but, alas, they're fairly scant so far. It really does look like it was mostly woven-in decoration, or printed on, probably with block prints.

However, I found some ideas for cheating. One is the Turkish variation of double running stitch that I saw at Festival - it's essentially just worked as a background, usually offset slightly, so it looks like a twill weave. If I can be bothered, I might come back and put a picture here.

Second is pattern darning, as is described by How To History, with an awesome video tutorial.

But back to the pretty shiny goldwork.

There's a nice, short article by a fellow SCAdian on the matter, which recommends strongly only using one strand of silk as the couching thread.

This article is in an annoying format, but suggests that any goldwork project be worked on two layers of fabric - an upper of silk or similar, and a bottom one to reinforce it. I presume, however, that linen canvas will be sturdy enough by itself, but I should double-check.

Mary Corbet links to this article: while she hasn't yet gone into Or Nue, she does have awesome tutorials on couching goldwork, which this is just a variant of. While the linked article has some very pretty pictures, it's a bit useless for the how-to bit.

On a side note, if my fairy godmother is out there, I've been very good and I'd like this for whichever holiday you feel like celebrating.

The local Worshipful Company of Broiders recommends getting silk thread from here, and goldwork supplies from here. However, I'd take this with a grain of salt as their webpage is so out of date - I'm more tempted to just get my thread from wherever Mary says is good, because she, obviously, is the Goddess of Needlework.

Oh, and to finish off my brain-dump, here's an idea for this year's generic Mandatory Fun Happy Gift-giving Season present:

It's a bread-basket liner. If I could work out how to hem it single-sided, I would, because it'd be awesome to show off blackwork.

Otherwise, blackwork bookmarks might be the way to go for Mother's Day.

New Project: An Elizabethan Sweete Bag

So, there's a Kingdom A&S competition coming up (12th Night 2013), and I want to enter it. Specifically, I want to enter an Elizabethan sweete bag. After doing a bit of poking around, I think I want to replicate this one from the V&A Museum:

Because it is super-pretty, and I really like the design on it. The description from the V&A is below:

Object Type
In the 17th century decorative purses such as this one were rarely used to carry money, as their wealthy owners engaged in few commercial exchanges requiring cash. In addition to serving as 'sweet bags' or 'gift wrapping', purses sometimes functioned as sewing kits that held needles, thread and tiny scissors. The attachment of a pin cushion to this purse suggests that it might have been used as a sewing kit, or kept on the dressing table to hold pins for fastening clothing.
Materials & Making
This pin cushion is decorated in canvaswork. Worked in wool, it was a popular form of embroidery, particularly for furnishings such as wall hangings, cushion covers and table carpets. For smaller items such as this purse and pin cushion, silk and metal threads were often used on a ground of finely woven linen. This example uses tent and Gobelin stitches, two of a variety of stitches found in canvaswork.
Design & Designing
The pattern depicts a rose tree, a motif made popular by its association with the Tudors. This type of needlework allowed subtle gradations of colour, giving the image a very pictorial effect.

More information:

Place of Origin:
England, Great Britain (embroidered)
Date:
1600-1625 (made)
Artist/maker:
Unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques:
Linen canvas, silk and silver thread
Dimensions:
[Purse] Height: 11.5 cm, Width: 14 cm
Object history note:
Embroidered in England
Descriptive line:
Purse with pincushion
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no):
John Lea Nevinson, Catalogue of English Domestic Embroidery of the Sixteenth & Seventeenth Centuries, Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Textiles, London: HMSO, 1938, p.98, plate LXIX

 So, in summary, I want to make a purse on a canvas backing (need to buy some suitable canvas), that's 11.5cm by 14cm. I've started using KG-Chart to chart it, but it's not working so well. Before I chart it out by hand, I think I'll search for similar designs to adapt, or see if someone else has done so. However, it's looking unlikely, as a google image search comes up empty.

Also, I need to work out how the background silverwork is done, since I don't recognise that small zig-zag pattern from my goldwork book.

It could be underside couching, as it does look a bit like this:

(from here:http://wkneedle.bayrose.org/member/member_underside.html by Caiterina nic Sheamus)

It would make sense for it to be underside couching, as I read that it's more durable, and more flexible, which makes sense for a pouch.

Oooh, the Worshipful Company of Broiders page hasn't been updated since 06. Hunyd's done a similar sweet bag (a pattern I was eyeing off, actually, it's another in the V&A), but there's nothing but a photo on the website, and her blog doesn't go back that far. I suppose I could actually try talking to her about it at a feast, or something.

Nah, that way lies madness. Madness, I say! Besides, I might be tempted to ask why she didn't do the pretty pretty goldwork braid that makes the piece, and I don't think that'd go down well. Stupid social conventions.

Ok, I think that's all the research I'm getting done tonight.

TL;DR:
- It's 11.5cmx14cm, silk and silver on linen canvas
- I need to combine x-stitch patterns to come up with a pattern to work from.
- Once I have a pattern, I can calculate the thread count of the canvas I need.
- ONLY THEN can I buy the silk.
- Silk appears to be tent stitch.
- Silver appears to be underside couching. I should learn how to do this.

So I don't forget them:

Upcoming Lochac Kingdom A&S competitions:

November Crown 2012:

-Non Culinary Recipes. Can be a produced item or a detailed research paper, focusing on a non food related period recipe. Eg Medicinal substance, makeup or beauty product etc
-A period item constructed from handmade, non woven fabric. Eg Made from Sprang, Felt, Knitting etc
-A Belt or Garter

12th Night 2013:

-An Elizabethan Sweete bag
-Moulded Food, eg blankmangere, in a soteltie or similar
-An item for storage. This is open for interpretation, and could include things as varied as a wooden chest, a ceramic pot, or a pouch...

May Crown 2013:

-A cast item.
-A Memento Mori - an artwork to assist the viewer to 'Remember your mortality'
-Music – An original composition, for voice or instrument in any period or style or an arrangement of a period piece done to a period style

Midwinter 2013:

-Metalcraft - A decorative item.  This is open to interpretation, and could include items such as jewellery, belt buckles, a coronet etc…
-A pair of Blackwork Cuffs
-Three period sauces -- recipes, photos, comments from at least 3 tasters.